@Punxi I made the mistake of going in at Santa Cruz. It took a few ms to understand why sunning was the main activity there--the water was about the temperature of Lake Superior in late August ("too f-ing cold").
I noticed surfers even S of LA using wet suits. So I'm guessing you were S of the base (Pendelton)...there are a lot of places between there and Torrey Pines...
Come to think of it, that probably did take a lot of guts to do as a tot. My first experience happened when the little boat my dad, sister and I were in capsized in the Grand River, Ontario when I was 4... shortly after this my parents enrolled me in a learn-to-swim class at our municipal pool.