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jpv1960 · 61-69, M
How many miles on the clock?
UsernameAlreadyInUse · 26-30, M
@jpv1960 about close to 200k miles on my hand,but is actually much more than that with speedometer had been reset by previous owner when i bought the car.
jpv1960 · 61-69, M
@UsernameAlreadyInUse Wow! That's really good. I used to change oil and service most of my old cars, but don't do it any more. Some years back I heard in Germany Taxi drivers use Merc and it is not unusual for them to do more than 500K on the same engine.

FreddieUK · 70-79, M
Good heavens, no! When you lift the bonnet (hood) of my car all you see is plastic coverings which are sealed. Other than topping up the windscreen washer, I'm pumping up the tyres I haven't done anything to my car for years. Then again, I am very fortunate to be able to afford a modern car and oil never seems to be a problem between services.
UsernameAlreadyInUse · 26-30, M
@FreddieUK is not about affortability to own newer car i can but i dont want to.The complexity of modern car cant say all unreliable but from what my friends ownership experience mostly back and fort to garage to solving endless engine problem one after another like whack-a-mole.The more complex the design the more likelyhood frequence break down.
FreddieUK · 70-79, M
@UsernameAlreadyInUse I know that can be some peoples experience, but for the past 12 years or so I haven’t had a moments problem which needed the attention of the garage outside the regular services. I’m one of the fortunate ones. In the past, I’ve had older vehicles because that’s all I could’ve afforded at the time and I was a regular at the service area having it looked at.
anythingoes477 · 31-35, M
Every since I have started trying to get in touch with my feminine side I don't try to change my car's oil anymore. Now I just listen and try to be supportive and understand it.
DallasCowboysFan · 61-69, M
I did in previous years, but not now. If I buy a 5 qt bottle of Castrol at Walmart for 25, 30, dollars and an oil filter for 10 dollars, it is as much as the cost of an oil change at WM. I can get an oil change for 50 dollars or so, not much more than the cost of the supplies.

I can barely reach the oil filter and the oil pan. It's a major pain, especially if you include the time it takes to gather the supplies, do the work and clean up the mess.

I just take it to WM and get it done while I am shopping.

I thought it was fun to change the oil, but now its a nuisance.
But I respect a guy that does work on his own car.
senghenydd · M
Do you add flushing oil and run the engine for a few minutes before draining the old oil, I expect so, bear in mind there's other parts that wear out, corrosion plays a part also, there comes a time when it's just cost effective to buy a newer model.
Baremine · 70-79, C
@senghenydd drain the oil when it's hot and you don't need any flushing agents.
senghenydd · M
@Baremine You could possibly have a build up of sludge in your sump depends on if you generally do short journeys where your engine doesn't warm up properly, that's my thought.
ArishMell · 70-79, M
I have done in years past, but I can perform only very simple servicing on my car now, and oil-changes are not practical for me.

So I have it serviced annually at the same time as its MoT test.

Years ago I owned a Series Two LandRover (A proper LandRover, not the costly but ordinary saloon car with the name stuck on, that masquerades as one now.) That had no less than six, possibly seven or eight, oil levels to maintain, plus various grease-nipples and simple oil points like hinges.
ArishMell · 70-79, M
@DallasCowboysFan The "Series- number" Landrovers are two-wheel / four-wheel drive, selectable so you normally use only rear-wheel drive, plus a high/low range gear. All these gears might be combined in one case - I can't really remember if some of the duties are performed in the "transfer gearbox".

The transfer gear-box carries the power take-off point, using a shaft that when fitted, emerges through a prominent hole through the chassis' rear cross-member, below the rear door or tailgate.

The oil-levels are the:-

Engine,
Gearbox,
Transfer Gearbox (unless combined with the main gearbox)
Rear Differential,
Front Differential,
The two steering-ball joint casings,
Steering gear-box, I think.

It's only the engine oil level that normally needs weekly attention.

Not sure what you mean about British cars having a personality of their own, but manufacturers selling vehicles in their own countries do have to follow national tastes and needs, and national / international laws covering vehicle safety and nowadays, environmental, concerns.

This affects imports too. For example the ordinary Tesla battery-electric cars built to meet British and European laws are fine, but that "Cybertruck" fails them, so is illegal for sales at commercial level.

(In the UK law, vehicles have to comply with the "Construction & Use Regulations", or any replacement equivalent - but years of EU membership brought a raft of extra, and tighter rules.)


A major difference between US and UK, indeed many European countries, is that even in the 1950s-60s most motorists never wanted the US-style, two-ton behemoths with huge, very thirsty engines, just to carry four or five people around.

Nor were many impressed by fancy fins and acres of chrome. In the late-1950s Ford's British operation modestly nodded to US styling, like negative-rake rear windows; but although the cars sold well enough the style did not catch on.

Instead, although there are plenty of big luxury cars like the Rolls-Royce, Range-Rover and large German saloon cars, most people drive smaller, lighter and much more fuel-efficient cars still capable of carrying four or five people at motorway-cruising speeds. Economics do play a part in this, of course: fuel is not cheap in many European countries. So we regard an ordinary car returning under 40mpg at steady cruising, as rather thirsty; and under 30mpg, extravagant. (UK Gallon - a bit bigger than the US gallon.)

The hatchback and estate versions seem more popular than the three-box body-shapes, too; as it is more versatile. The manufacturers' sales people advertise the load spaces of these in an odd way - not by dimensions in metres, nor by cubic metres of volume - but by the liquid measure, litres! Do think we will use the car as an aquarium?

Also, manual transmissions were a lot more popular than automatics in Britain at least; but this is slowly changing; and the battery-electric cars slowly gaining ground, are automatic anyway.


Car size fashion has changed a bit in Britain, lately.

Cars have become larger and fatter generally, partly I believe to accommodate "crumple zones" so a collision does more damage to the car in exchange for less to the occupants. This has led to the problem that parking in public car-parks is more difficult, and many cars now are too large for typical household garages built more than a few decades ago! You can drive the car into the garage... but then you'd be trapped in it!

Also it has become something of a fashion among those who can afford them, to buy bloated "SUV"s or over-size panel-vans, with no real reason to do so. Why buy a builder's wide-bodied pick-up just for day-to-day, ordinary motoring? I suspect mere vanity, including it being intimidating to other road users.

.......

I typed that penultimate sentence... then had to re-arrange the adjectives. It's the pick-up that's wide bodied, not the builder. Usually!
DallasCowboysFan · 61-69, M
@ArishMell The Land Rover has a sophisticated 4WD system with a good reputation, but otherwise, they are regarded as unreliable. They have one of the highest rates of depreciation among all the cars. And I think it was Queen Elizabeth that said that dealers should provide a mechanic with every Rolls Royce that was sold.

American cars have also had their fair share of bad apples as well. Ford and GM build a lot of cars and trucks. Some of them are bad, and others are quite excellent. It's a good idea to research the model number of the engine and transmission in a car before you buy one, new or used.

The reason people drive SUV's and Crossovers in the U.S. is because their mileage is about as good as a car of a comparable size, and they cost the same, too much. But an SUV is much more functional that a car, so people gravitate to them. The best selling cars in the U.S. are the Toyota RAV4, Honda CRV and even the Subaru Cross trek.

But full size Ford and Chevy trucks outsell both of them.

Mercedes and BMW are admired here, but Lexus outsells both of them. BMW's are not as reliable as they once were and Mercedes as well. Both of them are over engineered.

I have a Corolla now. I bough it in '22 during Covid, when they were in short supply. My next car will be a RAV4. They are suppose to released a new model before the end of this year.

I have always liked the Toyota 4Runner, but they have become too expensive for what you get. An average 4Runner, the new 25 version, is about 50K, but if you get one with a few bells and whistles they are 65-70k. That is Land Cruiser territory.

By the way I paid $2.42 for a gallon of gas last week at Costco. It's a large retail store.

Much cheaper than Europe or other nations.

My favorite cars were a Camaro with T-tops, a Jeep Cherokee with 4WD, and a 3 series BMW. They were all fun, for different reasons. But the most reliable cars have been the Toyotas I have owned.
ArishMell · 70-79, M
@DallasCowboysFan The earlier Landrovers, the "Series" ones, were no less reliable than any other car of the time, but suffered from the Discovery onwards. They were also a lot easier to service and repair anyway - but so most cars generally, without all the electronics not only necessary but also "nice-to-have" used now.

They are now quite sought-after, which I can't see what Jaguar-Landrover build now, becoming. They were intended as working vehicles. Although the present models of Landrover and Rangerover may be able to tow heavy trailers, and might be better in bad driving conditions that other cars, they are merely saloon-cars no use for off-road duties around farms, in quarries and the like.

On the other hand, all cars in that era needed a lot more routine servicing than now, and lack of that will not help keep a evhicle reliable.

I think much of the problem now comes from the motor industry shrinking to a few, gigantic international corporations; with their products basically a few range of the same things with detail differences, using parts made almost anywhere in the world; and formidably over-complicated by a combination of safety and environmental laws and sheer customer "wants".


Fuel is expensive in much of Europe by a combination of most countries having to import it, and high taxes. It varied a lot, though. I don't know the present position but relatively to Britain, petrol and Diesel fuel was cheap in France but costly in Norway, for examples I know. Over the years, Norway's costs stayed fairly stable while Britain's crept up to match.

In the UK, Diesel fuel used to be significantly cheaper than petrol, and a Diesel car uses less fuel anyway then a petrol equivalent for the same journeys. Indeed, this led the Government to encourage Diesel over petrol, and the manufacturers responded by making compression-ignition engines even better.

Then someone said Diesel engines emit soot and nitrous-oxides. Yes - we all recall lorries and buses throwing out black exhaust, mainly by poor servicing not replacing worn injectors. ALL internal-combustion engines emit nitrous oxides,even using hydrogen would, but the anti-Diesel brigade kept quiet about that! So the manufacturers made their engines better still, and added particulate filters and nitrous-oxide reducers. The latter using urea solution and catalysers to split the NOx back to nitrogen and oxygen.

Unfortunately most politicians are as technically illiterate as most environmental campaigners, so we now have a lot of absurd fear, and higher retail cost and "Road Fund Licence" (a tax on the vehicle), of the environmentally-better Diesel fuel!

British petrol and Diesel retail proces are stiff. They have long been subject to a tax called a "Duty"; then along came Value Added Tax - an incredibly over-complicated, accountants' dream wheeze invented in the EU, now used widely around the world.

So with VAT presently at 20% in the UK, we pay a compound price for fuel: [(retail + Duty) X 1.2].

It is also subject to the vagaries of the petroleum industry and international politics. Naturally, while the oil firms are quick to raise the fuel price when the OPEC price rises, they are slow to bring it back down unless their competitors get in quick with that!

The profit per gallon to the retailer is very low and faced with (loss-leading?) competition form supermarkets and in some areas, traffic lost to the motorways, a lot of filling-stations have stopped selling fuel. Some concentrate on servicing and second-hand car sales, many have closed completely. This is especially so in rural areas but around towns as well.

Petrol is presently around £1.40 a litre for petrol*, usually around 10p / litre higher for Diesel. The fuel is sold in litres though distances, speeds and fuel consumption all use the Statute Mile.)

That's in filling-stations on the ordinary roads. Most of the motorway service-areas rip us motorists off by charging typically 10p / litre more still, on both fuels, and I have seen it more than that. (Their cafeteria prices are steep, too.)

One 300 mile journey I make occasionally involves 200 miles of motorway driving (not nice!) My petrol car has a rather small tank, so I start with that full, replenish it at a filling-station I know about a mile off the M-way, at about 130 miles out; and that should take me to an ordinary garage on the final, non-motorway, 30 miles.

...

* Equals £6.36 per UK Gallon, about £5.30 / US Gallon - presently about US $6.90 for 1 US Gallon? So nearly 3 times as high as the cheapest you can find locally!

Though we have to be careful. Straight international comparisons of any price neglects a lot of other factors such as the relative incomes and costs-of-living, tax and insurance differences, etc. - even so, motoring in Britain is not cheap for we Britons!
Nitedoc · 51-55, M
I have most of my life. I used to work on my vechicles, brake jobs, replace alternator and generator, replace struts, change spark plugs, replaced u-joints in my truck. Just about anything that came up.
samueltyler2 · 80-89, M
My current car is a EV, not needed, my wife's car is ICR and needs so few changes, the dealer dies them as part of the free routine service
I did for a stretch back in the 80's; oil & filter. I haven't done such a thing in decades though.
1490wayb · 56-60, M
i do on my 2003 corolla with 235,000 miles and still running strong. a few hundred dollars in maintenance each year is far better than a new vehicle with sooo much stuff that can break, codes, sensors, etc
UsernameAlreadyInUse · 26-30, M
@1490wayb mine toyota is 2004,for me those era late 90s to early 2000s vehicle are the best spot of car engineering where it reach peak of efficient and reliability.Later years on car just became so complicated to compromise for meet strict emission regulation.
DallasCowboysFan · 61-69, M
@1490wayb It's cheaper to maintain a car, than buy a new one.
Charity · 61-69
I used to on the vehicles I had which were made before 1995. Less computerization in a bit more space.
masterofyou · 70-79, M
Yes i do on this little number


And also on this...

masterofyou · 70-79, M
@samueltyler2

All my life lived in New York, except 6 years in the Navy, lived in the same house since 1983 and still here.....
samueltyler2 · 80-89, M
@masterofyou in the same house, wow.
DallasCowboysFan · 61-69, M
@masterofyou I would love to have that Camaro
SlippingAway · 46-50, F
I can, my Dad showed me how but I don't want to :)
ShenaniganFoodie · 36-40, M
Yes, in between normal service checks.

I change the diesel oil every 7-8000 Kmls

The service book is 15,000 kmls

Hatt94 · 56-60, MVIP
@ShenaniganFoodie i do mine in my Diesel truck every 10000 km. Easy number to remember. Holds 16L. Its recommended at 12000, but i also run synthetic.
WormMan · 56-60, M
YoMomma ·
I don't but my sister does
Cigarguy · 41-45, M
Yes I do. I always have
calicuz · 56-60, M
Around here, it only costs about 5 dollars more to take it to Walmart than do it myself, so I just take it to Walmart.
thisguy20 · 41-45, M
No. I take the car to a mechanic; who for +/- $60 changes the oil, changes filters, checks other fluids, tests the battery, checks all the joints in the suspension, etc.
It would be my preference, yes.
Same with other maintenance.
samueltyler2 · 80-89, M
@Baremine I once had to stay in the hospital over the night i wasn't working , because the rain we had shorted out all of the wiring. I then found a set of wireproofing devices, like girdles for all of the wires, distributer cap, etc.
@Baremine @samueltyler2
I personally seek a mid-1990's Ferrari 456.
samueltyler2 · 80-89, M
@Amyrakunejo you have interesting taste
PerfectionOfTheHeart · 46-50, F
Nope. My car has Christine vibes so I don’t chance my life by getting underneath her.
Toyota is the best
I got a Toyota tazz

Too good
exexec · 70-79, C
I used to, but not now.
Kiesel · 56-60, M
Most of the time, yes
EmpaEmpa · 46-50, MNew
I have the ability to, just not the tools
Not anymore getting to old
yeah I always do.... saves me a buck or 2
That and several other maintenance tasks
Baremine · 70-79, C
@Baremine I don't know how thick of floor is required. I've heard 4". We have a 6" thick floor.
@Baremine Would think 6" would do with spread to 4 points
Baremine · 70-79, C
@BrandNewMan 6" has worked well for over 20 years with the two post.
No we have a dealership do it when they do a check up of the car
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Musicman · 61-69, M
I use to when I was younger. Now that I am older I let someone else do it.
Nunki · 31-35, F

 
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