Why Vancouver Island’s Qualicum Beach and Parksville are great in fall
From the Seattle Times
It’s a clear, warm September afternoon as I stroll along the waterfront promenade in Qualicum Beach on the east coast of Vancouver Island. Beside me, the postcard-perfect crescent beach curves along the shoreline, framed by the blue waters of the Strait of Georgia, part of the Salish Sea. Across the strait, the Coast Mountains rise along the British Columbia mainland, their snow-capped peaks stretching across the horizon. I’ve often said it’s the best view in Canada, and on days like this, I’m not inclined to change my mind.
In the distance, I spot a familiar face. My old friend Michael is coming out of the water after an outing on his stand-up paddleboard. Michael recently moved to the area from the prairies, drawn by the lifestyle, the scenery and, not insignificantly, the climate.
“Fall around here is some of the best summer weather anywhere,” he proclaims.
Qualicum Beach and neighboring Parksville, just 8 miles apart, form the heart of this popular stretch of Vancouver Island’s eastern coastline. There’s really no bad time to visit — OK, winter can bring the gray skies and drizzle familiar to anyone who lives in the Pacific Northwest — but fall may be the sweet spot, as autumn arrives gently here. September daytime highs average about 66 degrees and even as temperatures cool through October and November, the relatively mild coastal climate keeps beaches, trails and waterfronts inviting. The region’s temperate climate has even earned it the nickname “The Canadian Mediterranean.” The summer crowds have dispersed, and the area settles into a more relaxed rhythm.
Tourists have been discovering the appeal of the area for more than a century. Qualicum Beach’s first hotel opened in 1913, and over the decades the seaside community attracted everyone from Hollywood stars such as Errol Flynn, Bob Hope and Shirley Temple to royalty, including Queen Elizabeth II and the King of Siam (now Thailand). Today, it’s one of Canada’s best-known retirement destinations, while retaining much of its old-fashioned seaside charm.
I’ve visited both communities several times and appreciate each for different reasons. Qualicum Beach — QB to locals — is quieter and more laid-back, with independent shops and cafes and a hint of mid-20th-century charm. Parksville has a little more hustle and bustle, which can also be appealing, but its biggest draw is the shoreline: expansive sandy beaches, warm shallow water and dramatic tides that transform the landscape throughout the day.
Together, they’ve become one of my favorite places to visit on Vancouver Island — in Canada, really — and fall is one of the best times to experience them.
Here are five of my favorite ways to experience Parksville and Qualicum Beach in autumn.
Stroll the shoreline
Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park is my favorite beach to walk in Canada. About 2 miles southeast of downtown Parksville, its shoreline seems almost endless when the tide recedes. It has that same magnificent view across the strait to the mainland mountains as Qualicum Beach, and it’s about as peaceful a place as I’ve ever walked — save for the occasional squawking gull.
At low tide, beachcombers can wander far beyond the high-water mark across vast tidal flats, while shorebirds forage in the shallows.
If you’re looking for a long, unhurried walk while visiting the area, this is the place.
Closer to downtown, Parksville Community Park offers another terrific waterfront walk, with a boardwalk following the broad sweep of Parksville Bay.
In Qualicum Beach, the paved waterfront promenade follows the town’s shoreline, with plenty of spots to stop, sit and simply enjoy the view.
Fall for the colors
For a splash of autumn color, head to Milner Gardens & Woodland in Qualicum Beach, where maples and other deciduous trees turn shades of red, orange and gold from late September through October. The 70-acre seaside property combines gardens with old-growth forest and walking trails, while its annual Scarecrow Spectacular, Oct. 15-18 this year, adds a little whimsy to a fall visit.
About 20 miles west of Qualicum Beach, Cathedral Grove in MacMillan Provincial Park offers a very different kind of fall walk. The old-growth forest is dominated by Douglas fir and western red cedar, and it’s one of the easiest places on Vancouver Island to experience ancient forest. The trails begin just off Highway 4, and within minutes you’re walking beneath towering trees, some more than 800 years old, amid a lush understory of moss and ferns
Catch the salmon run
Fall also brings one of Vancouver Island’s great natural spectacles, as Pacific salmon return from the ocean to the rivers where they were born. At Englishman River Falls Provincial Park, about 8 miles southwest of Parksville, follow the forest trails to the Lower Falls, where the deep pool below the falls is a good spot for watching spawning salmon in fall.
For an even closer look, visit one of the area’s federal salmon hatcheries. Little Qualicum Hatchery welcomes visitors during working hours, with a spawning channel where returning salmon can be seen into November. Farther north, Big Qualicum Hatchery is particularly visitor-friendly, with spawning channels, nature trails and an eye-level viewing area that provides a close-up look at returning fish. Salmon can be seen there from late summer into December, with the first two weeks of October considered prime viewing time.
Watch for whales and wildlife
Fall remains an excellent time for whale watching in the waters off Parksville and Qualicum Beach, with Bigg’s killer whales — transient orcas — roaming the Salish Sea and humpbacks commonly encountered into autumn. Ocean EcoVentures runs excellent zodiac whale-watching trips from French Creek Marina until the end of October.
It’s a clear, warm September afternoon as I stroll along the waterfront promenade in Qualicum Beach on the east coast of Vancouver Island. Beside me, the postcard-perfect crescent beach curves along the shoreline, framed by the blue waters of the Strait of Georgia, part of the Salish Sea. Across the strait, the Coast Mountains rise along the British Columbia mainland, their snow-capped peaks stretching across the horizon. I’ve often said it’s the best view in Canada, and on days like this, I’m not inclined to change my mind.
In the distance, I spot a familiar face. My old friend Michael is coming out of the water after an outing on his stand-up paddleboard. Michael recently moved to the area from the prairies, drawn by the lifestyle, the scenery and, not insignificantly, the climate.
“Fall around here is some of the best summer weather anywhere,” he proclaims.
Qualicum Beach and neighboring Parksville, just 8 miles apart, form the heart of this popular stretch of Vancouver Island’s eastern coastline. There’s really no bad time to visit — OK, winter can bring the gray skies and drizzle familiar to anyone who lives in the Pacific Northwest — but fall may be the sweet spot, as autumn arrives gently here. September daytime highs average about 66 degrees and even as temperatures cool through October and November, the relatively mild coastal climate keeps beaches, trails and waterfronts inviting. The region’s temperate climate has even earned it the nickname “The Canadian Mediterranean.” The summer crowds have dispersed, and the area settles into a more relaxed rhythm.
Tourists have been discovering the appeal of the area for more than a century. Qualicum Beach’s first hotel opened in 1913, and over the decades the seaside community attracted everyone from Hollywood stars such as Errol Flynn, Bob Hope and Shirley Temple to royalty, including Queen Elizabeth II and the King of Siam (now Thailand). Today, it’s one of Canada’s best-known retirement destinations, while retaining much of its old-fashioned seaside charm.
I’ve visited both communities several times and appreciate each for different reasons. Qualicum Beach — QB to locals — is quieter and more laid-back, with independent shops and cafes and a hint of mid-20th-century charm. Parksville has a little more hustle and bustle, which can also be appealing, but its biggest draw is the shoreline: expansive sandy beaches, warm shallow water and dramatic tides that transform the landscape throughout the day.
Together, they’ve become one of my favorite places to visit on Vancouver Island — in Canada, really — and fall is one of the best times to experience them.
Here are five of my favorite ways to experience Parksville and Qualicum Beach in autumn.
Stroll the shoreline
Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park is my favorite beach to walk in Canada. About 2 miles southeast of downtown Parksville, its shoreline seems almost endless when the tide recedes. It has that same magnificent view across the strait to the mainland mountains as Qualicum Beach, and it’s about as peaceful a place as I’ve ever walked — save for the occasional squawking gull.
At low tide, beachcombers can wander far beyond the high-water mark across vast tidal flats, while shorebirds forage in the shallows.
If you’re looking for a long, unhurried walk while visiting the area, this is the place.
Closer to downtown, Parksville Community Park offers another terrific waterfront walk, with a boardwalk following the broad sweep of Parksville Bay.
In Qualicum Beach, the paved waterfront promenade follows the town’s shoreline, with plenty of spots to stop, sit and simply enjoy the view.
Fall for the colors
For a splash of autumn color, head to Milner Gardens & Woodland in Qualicum Beach, where maples and other deciduous trees turn shades of red, orange and gold from late September through October. The 70-acre seaside property combines gardens with old-growth forest and walking trails, while its annual Scarecrow Spectacular, Oct. 15-18 this year, adds a little whimsy to a fall visit.
About 20 miles west of Qualicum Beach, Cathedral Grove in MacMillan Provincial Park offers a very different kind of fall walk. The old-growth forest is dominated by Douglas fir and western red cedar, and it’s one of the easiest places on Vancouver Island to experience ancient forest. The trails begin just off Highway 4, and within minutes you’re walking beneath towering trees, some more than 800 years old, amid a lush understory of moss and ferns
Catch the salmon run
Fall also brings one of Vancouver Island’s great natural spectacles, as Pacific salmon return from the ocean to the rivers where they were born. At Englishman River Falls Provincial Park, about 8 miles southwest of Parksville, follow the forest trails to the Lower Falls, where the deep pool below the falls is a good spot for watching spawning salmon in fall.
For an even closer look, visit one of the area’s federal salmon hatcheries. Little Qualicum Hatchery welcomes visitors during working hours, with a spawning channel where returning salmon can be seen into November. Farther north, Big Qualicum Hatchery is particularly visitor-friendly, with spawning channels, nature trails and an eye-level viewing area that provides a close-up look at returning fish. Salmon can be seen there from late summer into December, with the first two weeks of October considered prime viewing time.
Watch for whales and wildlife
Fall remains an excellent time for whale watching in the waters off Parksville and Qualicum Beach, with Bigg’s killer whales — transient orcas — roaming the Salish Sea and humpbacks commonly encountered into autumn. Ocean EcoVentures runs excellent zodiac whale-watching trips from French Creek Marina until the end of October.
