The Day I Thought the Ocean Would Take Me I don’t know if anyone here surfs, but I had an experience years ago that still lives in me. It was 3 June 2001 in Wollongong Australia. I paddled out in 12-foot waves — way beyond my level at the time. The ocean was wild, the current relentless, and...This is a truncated preview of the original post. Press here to view the full post. Post Comment Receive notifications Add a comment...
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