Surfers are like Eskimos with all their terms for waves and surfWaves: A-frame: A wave that peaks and breaks to both the left and right simultaneously. Barrel: When the lip of the wave curls over the surfer, creating a tube-like ride. Greenroom: A slang term for the inside of a barrel. Swell: A series of waves... See More »
The Day I Thought the Ocean Would Take MeI don’t know if anyone here surfs, but I had an experience years ago that still lives in me. It was 3 June 2001 in Wollongong Australia. I paddled out in 12-foot waves — way beyond my level at the time. The ocean was wild, the current relentless, and... See More »
Stormy seasI took this last week during a storm Their was few trying to surf but it was rough for them (1)
