Some intense waves at Zuma

Was at Zuma Beach in Malibu yesterday, and the waves were quite a bit more intense than usual. Even just going to put your feet in the water you were risking getting knocked over, cause the waves were breaking so close to shore.

At one point I was in the water, I was past the point where I could stand up, and this huge wave crashed over me, pulled me under, and spun and tumbled me like I was in a washing machine. It was really disorienting. I was finally able to come up for air, and then about 3 seconds later another huge wave took me under again. I was really struggling to get back to shore, luckily this guy gave me his hand and was helping pull me to shore. It was a really scary experience, and my ears were hurting really bad afterwards.

But take a look at these fucking waves

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gamingnerd · 31-35, M

@Zionehho I'm sorry you tried
I know you are going through a lot.

After your house fire. Keep strong 2027 will be a amazing life for you.

Zionehho · 26-30, F

@gamingnerd haha 2037? 😅

gamingnerd · 31-35, M

@Zionehho I I meant 2027

syd03 · 41-45, M

Looks like a standard day at any surf beach down here. Guess it is normally a calm, non surf beach at that location?

Zionehho · 26-30, F

@syd03 it’s just that usually the waves don’t break that close to the shore

syd03 · 41-45, M

@Zionehho yeah true, down here we always have shories breaking close but a second, third or fourth bigger break further out. not just one big shore dump. Just gotta get past the break zone and then you can sit there all day without a worry.

I was out one day and it went from 4 foot clean breaks to a 7 ft rough storm break in like 1 minute. It was a bit hard to get back in as the breaks became very close and inconsistent. and sucky as and dumping you every 20 seconds and under for much of that - taking you further out. Was a bit sketchy to be fair and the struggle can set panic pretty quickly - glad you had some help.

OogieBoogie · F

That's interesting coz here that's normal.
I suppose its what you get used to?🤔

I grew up by the beach and as kids we played in these size waves all the time.
(Tip: dive under them as they come at you - so then you come out the other side where the water is smooth).

We used to turn and face the beach, wait for the wave, and then jump up into it and try and catch the 'sweet spot ". If you were lucky - it would 'grab' you and you could kinda ride it to shore.

But i know what its like to be dumped upon by a wave and get pushed under - it can freak you out if youve had no time to grab a breath before hand.

When waves swell they can temporarily affect the sand underneath at a beach, (drag it away, or opposingly, dump more - this can affect the slope and depth of the intertidal zone, and consequently....where the waves break.

Just remember the genral rules when a wave is just about to hit you:
- if you can, jump upwards and get ypur upperbody to clear it ...
Or...
- dive under it .

The secret with sea currents is to cut directly across them = ↑👍

I hope you got to enjoy thr rest of your day. Beaches are such treasures🤗

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