I have been doing some kind of regular exercise since i was 15

.. and now i believe it's been life changing from a health perspective.
I have got through health issues that my doctors have told me would ultimately disable me

But i believe we need a balance of all healthy things in our life.

To quote American Surfer - Laird Hamilton...

[i]To truly have optimal performance, you need to have every spoke in the wheel..
.. that you have to have a good relationship with your family
.. you gotta have love and you gotta have good things with your kids..

and.. you gotta have friends and you gotta have your health
.. and you gotta sleep well and be hydrated and you gotta work out and you gotta have a business thing

I just think you have to have all these things to have balance

If one of the spokes isn't tight, then you get a bump in the wheel

- Laird Hamilton - Surfer 56 years old[/i]

This is what i strive for every day although i'm missing some spokes. Some say we don't need love or we don't need a family or we can get by without exercise etc, but we need all spokes in the wheel. It's hard though... but it's worth it.

[youtube=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMqSmj-X4ls]

LunadelobosIAMTHEDRAGON · F

I have seen him auto surf or whatever it's called and some question if it's actually surfing, is he crossing a line, what are the lines?

He is the extremest in the extreme surfing category. And I will tell you what. I find that the more a person is disconnected from actual water by any gadgets it's just a distancing and thrill seeking (which he and other are welcome to do, it's their time, money and lives).

Take a surf board, and surf.
At best have the boat tow you our to the Jaw
but after that 'summit' if you go beyond that with gadgetry, for me, as a non surfer, it's just not pure surfing.
I don't think this is surfing in the truest sense, there has been a sharp divide, a real deviation.

Looking forward to your response.