I Have Something to Say
When a community loses a known surfer/friend, we have what we call a 'paddle out'. With my work, I know and love many surfers here, and have been to a lot of paddle outs through my time. It's a wonderful way to get together and honor someone.
Usually, we hold our paddle outs at Lovers Point. It's a park that protrudes out into the ocean, so spectators can go out to the end and be closer to the surfers than if they were sitting on the beach. Surfers will paddle out, sometimes with ashes, sometimes with family members of the deceased. When ready, the surfers will form a circle, the size will depend on just how many are out there. Someone usually paddles to the center and says something. If the group is wearing leis, the last thing they will do is throw them toward the center of the circle, then they will ride the surf in. Some will remain in the water and continue to surf.
The last one I went to, a brother first went in and shared some memories, then asked others if they'd like to say something as well. Due to that, the paddle out lasted about three hours, whereas they are normally one. But that's ok. Everyone is different. When it was done, we had a bbq and visited with the others. It was an all day affair. There were about a hundred surfers in that circle, and at least a couple hundred others on the point.
The reason I bring this up is that we recently lost Jack O'Neill. Surfsuit inventor/maker/entrepreneur. Who we called the father of surfing. He was dearly loved by many and known around the world. So many, that I can easily say that today's paddle out will be the largest we've ever had in the bay area. I'm thinking at least 500, if not more. (and that's just the locals). Sadly enough, I can't be there, as I am working today, but he will always have a special place in my heart, as a dear friend and supporter for my business.
One of my favorite memories of Jack was when I first moved to Santa Cruz from Maui. He was one of the first people I met there, within just a couple of months of my move. I was sitting on the cliff at Pleasure Point, watching the surfers below, and a man came and sat next to me. We nodded hello, but didn't say anything. I could see that he just wanted to sit there as well. We both enjoyed the view, and about fifteen minutes or so later, he got up to leave, bidded me a good day, and walked off. I turned to say goodbye, when I realized just who it was sitting there next to me. I kind of kicked myself, as he's always been one that I've admired.
Luckily, I met him a few weeks later at a get together. He had come up to me and said, "hey aren't you the one that I came and sat next to on the cliff? I said yes, and from then on, we were friends.
I will miss you, Jack! Surf On!!!
Video of his paddle out is at: http://www.surfline.com/video/surfline-live/live-jack-oneills-memorial-paddle-out-at-pleasure-point_148265
Usually, we hold our paddle outs at Lovers Point. It's a park that protrudes out into the ocean, so spectators can go out to the end and be closer to the surfers than if they were sitting on the beach. Surfers will paddle out, sometimes with ashes, sometimes with family members of the deceased. When ready, the surfers will form a circle, the size will depend on just how many are out there. Someone usually paddles to the center and says something. If the group is wearing leis, the last thing they will do is throw them toward the center of the circle, then they will ride the surf in. Some will remain in the water and continue to surf.
The last one I went to, a brother first went in and shared some memories, then asked others if they'd like to say something as well. Due to that, the paddle out lasted about three hours, whereas they are normally one. But that's ok. Everyone is different. When it was done, we had a bbq and visited with the others. It was an all day affair. There were about a hundred surfers in that circle, and at least a couple hundred others on the point.
The reason I bring this up is that we recently lost Jack O'Neill. Surfsuit inventor/maker/entrepreneur. Who we called the father of surfing. He was dearly loved by many and known around the world. So many, that I can easily say that today's paddle out will be the largest we've ever had in the bay area. I'm thinking at least 500, if not more. (and that's just the locals). Sadly enough, I can't be there, as I am working today, but he will always have a special place in my heart, as a dear friend and supporter for my business.
One of my favorite memories of Jack was when I first moved to Santa Cruz from Maui. He was one of the first people I met there, within just a couple of months of my move. I was sitting on the cliff at Pleasure Point, watching the surfers below, and a man came and sat next to me. We nodded hello, but didn't say anything. I could see that he just wanted to sit there as well. We both enjoyed the view, and about fifteen minutes or so later, he got up to leave, bidded me a good day, and walked off. I turned to say goodbye, when I realized just who it was sitting there next to me. I kind of kicked myself, as he's always been one that I've admired.
Luckily, I met him a few weeks later at a get together. He had come up to me and said, "hey aren't you the one that I came and sat next to on the cliff? I said yes, and from then on, we were friends.
I will miss you, Jack! Surf On!!!
Video of his paddle out is at: http://www.surfline.com/video/surfline-live/live-jack-oneills-memorial-paddle-out-at-pleasure-point_148265
