I need some advice from Air conditioner specialists, Gender not specific!!!!

So my house has a space pack AC in the attic, 2 years ago we had a new AC installed during the hottest month of summer, and last year i installed some airflow diverters in the form of PVC pipe that just shifted the flow of the sir from just out the primary hole to two holes so the rooms would maybe get cooler. Well the blower Motor just burned out, SOOOOO my question is two fold.... fold one, would diverters really cause the motor to work so much harder to burn out? and FOLD 2 what solutions are cheep to get better flow into every room so the house is cooler cause the previous owners were fucking cheep ass people, and my family is not 100% flush in cash..... please help me out......

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DeWayfarer · 61-69, M

@allygator18 you forgot about the multiversal dieclectic bunk inducer. 🙃😊

tfan123 · 41-45, M

PVC I think is for liquids not a/c and heat. That’s why they have that metal hvac ducting. I would call a local hvac person and tell them we hat you have done, what happened and what they suggest and tell them your financial problem and if there is a less expensive way to fix it.

MarineBob · 56-60, M

Most reputable companies will give you a free wriitten estimate, most utility companies must give you a free wriitten assessment of the unit

SandWitch · 26-30, F

It is irrelevant what kind of piping was used to divert airflow, PVC, ABS, galvanized or aluminum.

What matters is the number of elbows that were used between the air conditioner and the air outlet from the pipe. What also matters is the diameter of the PVC that was used. If it was narrow (like 2" pipe), that is not good. The larger the inside diameter of the pipe, the less friction drag results and the easier it is for the blower to move the air through it.

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SandWitch · 26-30, F

@DiegoWolfe
Yes I do. My Engineering background is primary focused in marine propulsion systems for large vessels which of course involves the movement of water, but the principle behind the movement of water versus the movement of air is no different for practical purposes.

The accumulated pressure within a pipe could burn out a motor within a few minutes of operating, depending on the size and cooling ability of the motor itself, however for larger applications, the burn-out time assuming continuous use could be as much as 72 hours from the time the motor was switched on.

What burns out a motor, be it an electric motor or a hydraulic motor, is heat from lack of cooling. Heat causes the internal seals to solidify as they become 'cooked'. This is what causes automatic transmissions to fail in a car if a transmission cooler is not installed and a trailer is being pulled.

The second factor that prematurely burns out an electric or hydraulic motor is from a pressure force being applied to the fan blades in the opposite direction to which the medium (air or water) was intended to be moved through a pipe.

Premature failure of the motor is typically caused by 'back pressure' being applied to the fan blades which results from the pipe not being large enough to move the volume of air or fluid. I would speculate that this is what caused your motor to fail.

The medium then backs-up within the pipe causing a reverse pressure to be applied to the shaft bearing of the fan in the 'wrong' direction for which it was designed to operate. This causes rapid failure of the bearing and it's internal seal which is where the motor failure originates from. Excessive heat will cause an electric motor to fail faster than the breakdown of it's internal seal.

DiegoWolfe · 36-40

@SandWitch This is going to sound really wrong to say, but fuck thst was hot to read!!!! Nothing is more attractive than a person speaking about something they are expert in or are passionate about!!!!

Thank you for such a clear explanation to my question, you are an amazing human!

SandWitch · 26-30, F

@DiegoWolfe
Oh, you are very welcome!

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